Shree Varaha Devaswom, Azheekal

We were fortunate enough to visit the Azheekal Shree Varaha Devaswom/ Temple, Cherai, near Ernakulam, in early 2019, which had been on our bucket list since long. What we felt standing in the premises, of this old temple, we cannot quite explain. We could not imagine what our ancestors would have gone through, as they fled the Portuguese Inquisition (click the link to learn more about this event), just to preserve their culture and tradition. Sadly, their bravery along with many many others’, has been lost in the pages of Indic history; not many, save for their respective descendants/ communities, even know about such sad historic events today.

We reach the temple and are greeted with a very homely feeling, transporting me back to my hometown of Mulki. There are many a “Katte” in the premises, a central component to evoke this feeling (katte = a raised platform built around trees, especially Peepal tree). People sit on these to chat, catch up on the days’ events, or simply spend some time by themselves. This is a disappearing scene from the city, but very much prevalent in smaller towns still). The temple premises are maintained well. Being quite a big property, there are plenty of trees; the surroundings are sandy, reminding one of the proximity to the Sea. A forgotten old railway track runs outside the temple within the premises. As is the norm, all the temple announcements are in the local language, i.e. Malayalam. Having grown up seeing all announcements in Kannada, this is a first time for us. What is common however, is the ever smiling picture of our benevolent Swamiji.

 

The temple is yet to see “renovations” that have become the fad in and around Mangalore, which means beautiful yet “loud” wooden carvings; hence, the antiquity is well maintained. Old style buildings, tiled roof, clean area around the sanctum devoid of tiles/marble – just what makes a temple feel such a wonderful place to be in, where one can simply sit and pray/meditate. Ancient woodcarvings depicting various scenes from Ramayana are present within the premises. A Goshala in the premises completes the beautiful picture.

The priests at the temple are too happy to welcome us. Outsiders hardly visit this temple, and hence they’re quite curious to know how we ended up visiting. We are too happy to talk and be told about the temple history. The Konkani here has a strong local accent; we initially find it a little difficult to follow, but we quickly acclimatize and pick up.

I spot pictures/paintings of all the Pontiffs of the Kashi Math Samsthan, through the centuries. Standing there, I’m overcome with emotion and feeling, as I think of all the hardships the refugees would’ve faced as they fled – simply to save their culture. They truly were super humans to have undertaken this journey in the 15^th century! Pray, how many would’ve succumbed to the perils of this arduous journey, how many would’ve drowned at Sea in those tempestuous nights! I shudder when I imagine this.

So, why is this temple so special?

Read on.

(Source: Booklet from the temple office)

Brief History:

When the Goenkars (people of Goa, including the Gauda Saraswat Brahmins or GSBs) faced forced conversions and religious persecution at the hands of the Portuguese when the infamous Inquisition was imposed, many of them got converted to escape persecution and torture. Many of them stayed back and fought, some of them dying a hero’s death in the process. However, many of them left their Kuldevatas, hearths and homes and all their worldly belongings, in their beloved motherland Goyn/Goa, never to return. They did this with just one purpose, to preserve their Gods, their culture, their language Konkani, and their rich tradition, which they couldn’t practice under the harsh Portuguese regime. They settled across the coast, right from Maharashtra, to Karnataka and a sizeable portion also moved to Kerala. Also, there has been evidence of stray migration of a few families in as early as the 13^th century; they had come to Kochi before this bulk exodus, for the purpose of trade and commerce. 

Wherever they settled, they first consecrated their temples, trying to mimic their culture from back home. They were fortunate enough to be given land and funds by the rulers of the respective lands that they settled in; so also in Kerala, including the Royal family of Travancore and Cochin.

Most of the GSBs who came to Kerala settled in the area between Azheekal and Elamkunnapuzha in the Vypeen Island in Kochi. Trade and commerce being their main occupation, this area was near the flourishing Njarakkal port. Among these traders, one Krishna Prabhu of Kashyapa gotra owned two beautiful vigrahas of Shri Varaha and Shri Vithoba. These were consecrated at Azheekal and soon, Shri Varaha came to be the Gramadevata of the place. Krishna Prabhu bought extensive plots of land from the landed gentry of the region, the Paliyath Achans, to establish various temples.

In 1565, Srimad Yadavendra Tirtha Swamiji, the very first Pontiff of the then newly established Kashi Math visited Azheekal, the primary settlement of the GSBs. It was at the hands of Swamiji that the vigraha of Shri Varaha was installed. The GSBs of the area came to be referred to as Azheekal Yogakkars. This temple is believed to be the first GSB temple to be established in Kerala. Owing to sea erosion, it had to be shifted to where it now stands. The original vigraha too was lost during flooding, following which new panchaloha vigrahas (panchaloha = five metals) were cast and installed. Subsequently, when the lost vigraha was miraculously recovered, it was again re-installed.

This temple records visits from the various pontiffs of Kashi Math over the years. Over the years, many GSB families relocated to more interior parts of Ernakulam and Cochin to escape sea erosion and resultant losses. And this temple, was finally shifted to Cherai in 1869. Of the families that came to Kerala, a family bearing the name “Kastoori” Shenoy reached Azheekal; Late Sri Venkateswara Shenoy was one of the first trustees of the newly built temple at Cherai.

Siginificance: This is the only temple in the country where the vigraha of Varaha along with Sridevi and Bhudevi plus that of Sri Venkateswara with Mahalakshmi are installed and worshipped in a single sanctum, side by side.

Note: The 150^th year of Prathista was celebrated in 2019 with a Sahasra Kumbha Abhishekam being conducted.

Parting Note: 

For those interested in going back into their roots, this place is a must visit. This temple, like many others, is a strong reminder- reminder of the price that our forefathers have paid to uphold Dharma. Hence, for all those with an inclination to learning and honouring our forgotten history, this “out of the way” temple from Ernakulam, is definitely worth the long ride.

See also:

Temple Run in Goa